Unwind

A joint effort for our last post! Here is Priyanka, with a word from Stone Town.

Stone Town, the largest city in Zanzibar, is a place of sensory overload. Each winding alley brings you face to face with bustling bazaars, mosques, and beautiful carved wooden doors. The labyrinth of streets makes it almost impossible to find the same place twice, but that is half the fun. Not only is Stone Town appealing to the eye but the abundance of fresh tropical fruits and locally grown spices are a treat to your taste buds. When we tired of wandering the streets of Stone Town we indulged in fresh coffee spiced with locally grown cinnamon, cloves, and cardamom, passion fruit juice, homemade chapattis, and some of the most delicious freshly caught fish. While we enjoyed wandering and exploring my favorite part of Stone Town was our final Saturday morning. Up early we dressed conservatively and went to Ben Bella Secondary School for the Students for Students International Health Seminar.

Students for Students International is a non-profit organization whose mission is to create educational opportunities for high-achieving students in the developing world, with the belief that education is essential to community leadership and a country’s development. Based at the University of North Carolina-Chapel Hill, Amit and I began working with S4Si during our first year of college in 2004. There were countless hours spent in meetings, recruiting volunteers, planning educational events, and so much fundraising. During undergraduate I was inspired by the idea of helping to fund the education of female students. But across an ocean and continent, I had no idea what the reality of the S4Si scholarship was, until a few weeks ago.

You can imagine how excited I was to meet the infamous S4Si scholars who I had worked with for 4 years but never actually seen. We began the morning discussing nutrition but quickly launched into female reproductive anatomy. Despite the lack of a projector, the makeshift chalkboard drawings did the trick and we continued the morning with a discussion of pregnancy and sexually transmitted infections. With a few snack breaks, before I knew it the morning had flown by and it was time for the girls to go home. The health seminar was a success! I was amazed by the intelligence of all the scholars and their prowess of the English language. It is hard to describe in words how wonderful it was to see with my own eyes that the work we had done for many years was really and truly making a difference in the lives of these remarkable young women. To learn more about S4Si you can check out the website: http://s4siunc.org/

Alright, time to let Priyanka take a break. Amit’s your guide on a vacation in Matemwe.
After two months of toil and trouble in Tanzania, three days of nothing but laziness was not something I was going to feel guilty for. A ride on a one hour dala dala, the local transport van, was a guaranteed cultural experience in itself. Open air and bumping all the way to Matemwe, our rear ends were happier than ever to switch from the barely cushioned benches to the soft beach sand typical of the eastern coast of Zanzibar. Here, the finest whitest sand one may ever see forms an endless strip separating the brilliant blue waters from the overhanging palms of the coastline. The mornings are restful, the afternoons are relaxing, and the evenings are breezy. Matemwe is both an idyllic getaway for travelers and a fascinating home for locals. After treating ourselves to fresh squeezed juice, Spanish omelets and toast we would walk the ten yards to the beach, our home until the stomachs indicated it was time for lunch. The morning view was always dotted by women wrapped in multi-colored kangas making their seaweed collection rounds. With the tide low, the women were able to wade knee-deep to their collection site. Hours could easily tick by just watching the work progress. Women would come with empty hands and leave hours later with dressing gowns of seaweed trailing behind them. On afternoon walks we would notice the same seaweed hanging from makeshift clotheslines connecting the palms. Curiosity was certainly peaked by this practice, but in honor of “pure physical and mental relaxation”, I never did figure out what the purpose of harvesting all that seaweed was. Regardless, the fascination remained and I watched from morning to afternoon.

Once the tide came in we were free to wash away the morning heat before returning to the bungalows for some casual reading. And each evening ended with an incredible meal of the catch of the day, grilled and curried with stir-fried vegetables and rice. If ever in Tanzania, I am happy to provide a personal guarantee that you will not be disappointed with Sele’s Bungalows in Matemwe!

And now I'm back in the states just four days away from the start of year 2. Thank you all for reading and writing! Hope you had a great summer and enjoyed the blog!

Outside the Lines

Seven weeks have already passed since I first stepped off my Precision Air flight into Mwanza on June 2nd. It's hard to believe that I have been working here at IHP's clinic for that long, but now that I stop to think I notice the small things that indicate I am no longer a new presence, but a part of the usual circle. Zefaniah, our favorite guard, greets me as cheerily as always, but so kindly lies through his teeth, “Ohh Amiti, very good, you are speaking Swahili now, it is very good!” Bibi, our clinic grandma, doesn't hesitate to ask me to start an IV, granted I still defer to Jimmy. Lucy, chef extraordinaire, knows chapattis and french fries at dinner are guaranteed to make my day.

Work here has been very rewarding, as I have learned a great deal about tropical diseases and medicine, become more comfortable with blood draws than I could have ever imagined, and had the opportunity to share time with people that laugh their way through any setback. One aspect of work that truly stands out, are the general health education presentations we have done in the local schools. The initial idea was to determine where there might be a void in health education and how we could fill it. Upon asking educators and students if there was anything they needed us to present on, one answer always found its way to the top of the list: STD's and sex education.

Last Wednesday, this seemingly benign concept led me to find myself with my friends and fellow medical students from IHP (Courtney – girl, Priyanka – girl, Natalie – girl, Sarah – girl), at the front gate of the Loreto Secondary School for Girls, ready to do a presentation on women's health, to include: reproductive anatomy, the menstrual cycle, UTIs, yeast infections, and more. In a relatively conservative setting, this situation made me wonder what in the world I was doing there. Pepsi in a Coke culture, I was trouble.

Beyond the gates, past the guard tower, and under the archway, the grounds opened out into a beautiful landscaped courtyard flanked on all sides by concrete education blocks. My mind didn't want to give in that I was actually nervous about this, but my involuntary physical changes yanked the cloak: erector pili muscles pulled my arm hair to attention, temperature notched up a couple, and palms became clammy. I dipped my head into the room filled with almost a hundred Form 3 girls in uniform. As we walked in and it became apparent to the Loreto girls that I was the only male presenter, the giggles and whispering began. I busied myself setting up the computer and projector, counted to ten, and looked up. This was going to be special.

Fortunately, Priyanka began the presentation and introduced reproductive anatomy and the menstrual cycle before time came for me to talk more in depth about ovulation, fertilization and dysmenorrhea. I started off strong. Ovulation and fertilization no problem. On to dysmenorrhea. “One risk factor of dysmenorrhea is having a positive family history.” Blank stares. I continued, “this means if you have a parent or a sibling who has experienced dysmenorrhea then you are more likely to have it.” Blank stares. My clammy palms had lost sensation, the room was shrinking, and sweat was forming on my receding hairline. “You know siblings, as in sisters or brothers...or, haha, obviously not brothers.” All I could do was laugh, run my hand through my hair, and look to Sarah and say, “I think it's your turn.”

Making a mistake always makes it easier. Having butchered dysmenorrhea, everything else seemed better and the rest of the presentation went smoothly. We fielded numerous questions that shall not be repeated and were asked to come back the next day for more. After two days, I am confident the girls had a much better understanding of STD's, how their body functions, and how they can, both protect themselves and receive the care they need. Having survived Loreto, the presentations in Zanzibar should be a breeze!

On a side note, Priyanka and I decided to write two completely different blogs about different aspects of our work here because we realize we cheated some of you out of different entries with our last joint post about the safari. So, to read a fabulous description of life in the clinic from both the student and patient perspective, hop on over to http://priyankarao.blogspot.com/

Tanzania tidbits:

1. I find it sad to report that, while the harmless act of yawning is contagious in the states, the not so pleasant act of in front of your face nose-picking is contagious here. While at the tailor the other day, we noticed one lady start, and then two more follow in suit. This is an observation that can be corroborated by several volunteers here.
2. An “i” is added to the end of almost every name. Amit = Amiti. The name, Martin, given to me by our driver, Mboto, actually equals Martini.
3. The collection of pumpkin foods we have consumed thanks to Paula's love for pumpkins is now: pumpkin pie, pumpkin bread, pumpkin bread pudding, pumpkin soup, boiled pumpkin with butter, and pumpkin cookies.

Safari!!!

One week has already passed since we left on our safari, but all the details are still fresh.

Friday, 8:30 AM anxiously awaiting the arrival of our already half an hour late vehicle we begin to wonder if we have crossed the threshold of African Standard Time. Urged to call our agent, Amit reluctantly agrees to drop 300 of his remaining 600 shillings in order to find out the ETA of our driver, Vincent, and cook, Bosco. Minutes later the souped up excursion sized, Landcruiser arrives: massive tires, three rows of paired captain seats, a built in fully powered mini-fridge, electrical outlets that don’t work, and best of all, the type of sunroof that would make a convertible jealous. Stocked with M&Ms, our saving grace, we’re off!

Crossing the gates into the western Serengeti, the landscape quickly changes from rows of Coca-Cola and Sprite faced buildings to endless straw shaded fields. We are all excited by our first sightings of zebras, wildebeests, and gazelles, but soon grow anxious to see the rarer animals. Priyanka’s wish list: 1. baby elephant, 2. male lion, 3. lots of giraffes. The landscapes are incredible. Herds of wildebeests are everywhere as the timing of our safari happens to coincide with their annual migration through the western Serengeti. Interestingly, just like humans trying to escape the heat, they often cluster in groups in the shade of some of the bigger trees that happen to spring from the occasional spot in the otherwise flat plains. Midday, they group directly under the trees, but as the sun looks sideways in the late afternoon, the groups slowly seep out from under the branches in pursuit of the slowly elongating shadows.

Only three hours past the western gate we happen across a water source, and with it a gathering of animals. In dry season, the dwindling number of rivers and streams funnel the herds in. Perfect bait for hungry lions. Just seeing the lions is a gift, but Vincent believes they may be preparing for an attack, so the engine is turned off and we become part of the scene. Female and cub arise from their slumber, ears point, shoulders tense, head lowers. Such a contrast, from our six bobble-heads, looking every which way trying to grasp what she senses. We click away knowing something is amiss, and then she shoots out from under the tree, through the brush and around towards the back of the car. Within seconds her jaws are clenched around the neck of a wildebeest and she is joined by the regal male, all of us had failed to even notice. The site is astounding. Just ten yards away from our vehicle. Male, female, and cub, with dead wildebeest are all that are left of the scattered herds.

We were more than spoiled on our first day, but nonetheless continued to be awed by the beauty of the landscapes. The grandeur of fifty plus elephants controlling their stomping ground and families of giraffes careening their necks to enjoy their balcony view over all the action were only a couple of the memorable sites. And interspersed throughout the weekend, lion spottings never failed to spike the adrenaline. On our last night we even enjoyed a special visit from the neighborhood elephant. Tired from a long day we had gathered at our campsite expecting only a mix of tents, tired safari goers, and a peaceful evening. Instead we found a crowd gathering near the fenced in cooked stations. Word was that one of the older wiser elephants had figured out how humans keep their water year round. Having departed from the toil of finding water in ever changing streams, he had made it a habit to just take a stroll in our campsite over Ngorongoro for a daily sip from the communal reservoir, haha!

By Priyanka and Amit

Mambo!

Wrinkled, swimming pool fingers typing away on a Sunday afternoon. Washing dishes is one of the many new skills we learn living the day to day here in Mwanza. Preparation: tub 1 with hot water, dish detergent and chlorine crystals, tub 2 with hot water and chlorine crystals, and tub 3 with more of the same. In the “man’s kitchen” Dan filters the flow of dirty dishes into tub one and assures that they get a good scrubbing. From there he goes for the no look pass I have come to expect. The soap suds are pulled in by tub 2 and the now virtually clean plate is dropped into tub 3 for the final step. Round three of chlorination takes care of the typhoid, salmonella, and whatever else may have otherwise been looking to hang on for the ride.

Father’s day in Mwanza led Paula, the director here at Nyakato, to cook a feast not to be forgotten: eggplant parmesan, spaghetti, fresh baked bread, balsamic droplets in a puddle of olive oil, ice cream, and lemon cookies. The Tanzania everyone expected, right? Two days ago I even had pumpkin pie for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Here at Nyakato we are beyond lucky to be surrounded by amazing food, great weather, and wonderful people.

It’s Wednesday now. Internet went out last Sunday so the blog was put on hold, but now I am free to begin typing once again. Still wrinkled fingers, no worries. Just finished a stack of dishes again. Today is my miscellaneous day, a nice break in a strangely hectic drawl that equals life here. Each day comes to a close before one is ready for it. Stopping to think, though, I realize how much all the little quirks of living in Africa add up. Hanging clothes on the line to dry, soaking fruits and greens in chlorine water, waiting the flip of an hourglass for a webpage to load, charging electronics when the power is working, knocking shoes before slipping the feet in, doing dishes in three tubs, and warding off mosquitos, all while broiling away your energy under the inescapable steady stroll of the sun above… Every bit is worth it. It’s worth slowing yourself down and stepping away from the independent individualism of life at home.

There are currently ten medical students here (five from UNC, four from Mayo, and one from Iowa). The bulk of us live in the “bungalow” a nice two bedroom bunk-bed filled house with a kitchen, living room and a couple of bathrooms. We are constantly bumping into each other, but it works. In the clinic we rotate through a schedule that involves three lab positions (doing blood draws, measuring blood sugars, hemoglobins, and whatnot, conducting tests for malaria, typhoid, HIV, etc.), a couple rotations with doctors where we practice our physical exam skills and gain mostly tropical medicine knowledge, and finally triage and pharmacy. Aside from the clinic we occasionally outreach to local schools to give health presentations mainly focused on sexual health and STD’s because those are the topics most frequently requested.

Outside of the daily wanderings, one of the most memorable sights from our first couple of weeks was a trip to Dr. Msengi’s dancing rocks. I wish you all could meet Dr. Msengi, one of the physicians we work with and the man who led us on our adventure. In three words he’s expressive, high-pitched, and old-fashioned. A one hour spine reorienting ride led us to what looked like a mountain of misshapen boulders rising behind a typical African village. Unfolding below the other side, however, was an amazing view of lush countryside, stone schoolhouses, and Lake Victoria. A whole afternoon could easily be spent on those rocks, a speck on the horizon.

Whenever we can catch a free afternoon and are able to overcome the desire for shut eye, we venture on one of the multitude of splitting dirt paths leading us to either the village or the basketball courts. A trip to the village equals walking to the beat of a chorus of Swahili greetings from curious onlookers. Shouts of “Mzungu! Mzungu!” (Foreigner! Foreigner!) remind me of my morning walks in Ghana, where I for the first and potentially only time in my life was called a white person (Abruni! Abruni!) haha. A response in Swahili sometimes leads to the full test. If you can make it through all the greetings (Habari – Nzuri!, Mambo vipii – Poa!, Kazi – Kazi Nzuri) you are sure to get some very satisfied smiles and maybe even fall headfirst into a full out conversation you have no chance of keeping up with. Turning the corner into the village we come across the tailors who whip together African print scrubs in the matter of days, the cell phone shop for phone cards, and then our usual destination, a place we like to call pool bar. Basically, our one spot for a cold Coke and chance to watch some World Cup!

A stop by the basketball courts is usually motivated by our secret weapon and varsity athlete Jade. If she is successful at pulling at least three of us out of slumber we can usually represent. Although, I find it virtually impossible to hit anything on the humbling double rims, basketball is always fun and there is usually a good group of people welcoming us to play. The best memory was of thirteen year old Jeffrey from our first outing. After following through layup and shooting drills, we split into two teams with a couple subs. Sitting out at the beginning, I noticed little Jeffrey changing out of his shoes and pulling his polo over his head. Drills and no basketball? Jeffrey said he wasn’t aloud to play yet. The older guys owned the court and Jeffrey was still the little sibling. Not upset at all though, he smiled and watched. He said he would always come out for the drills, even if he couldn’t play in the games, because “Practice makes perfect.”

P.S. Since Priyanka and I are both here for the summer we thought we would include you on both of our writings. Read more about Nyakato and life in Tanzania here: http://priyankarao.blogspot.com

Off to Tanzania!

Hey Friends. I just got to Tanzania a couple days ago and will be here for the summer! That means that the blog is getting an epi shot to the thigh and will hopefully find its way back into business soon. Internet access is very limited, but I will do my best to post as regularly as possible. For the first six weeks I will be in Mwanza, Tanzania, working at a clinic with International Health Partners Tanzania and conducting health education presentations in local schools. Then I will fly across to the island of Zanzibar for two weeks of health education work with the scholars of Students 4 Students International! S4Si is a completely student run non-profit based out of UNC that provides scholarships for girls to attend secondary school in Tanzania. I was lucky to work with S4Si for four years as an undergrad and can't wait to finally meet the scholars!

Breakfast time and off to work!

El Último Post (The Final Post)

April 24th and I find myself...HOME! After months of travels and experiences I am finally back with stories that will stay with me forever. Some of you have already been surprised to see me back in Fayetteville without a blog post to explain how or when I returned!

The last month was the most bus, sleeping bag and cold floor inundated month of my entire time abroad. Backpacking month began with a flight from Quito, Ecuador, to Cuzco, Peru, on March 13th and ended with a flight from Santiago, Chile, back to Quito on April 14th. It was a month that kept us physically above 10,000 feet, mentally out of the box, and emotionally over the clouds!

We started where many would end, with a hike through time along the path of the Inca to the sacred site of Machu Picchu. The travel group was comprised of Hudson, Priyanka and her family, a quad of Canadians, two pairs from the States, a slew of porters, cooks, and guides, and yours truly. Acclimated from Quito and a couple of days in Cuzco, we embarked with light bags that would strangely seem to accumulate weight over the next couple of days. Weather was pristine and the bad hiking luck was fortunately held up in airport security in Ecuador. Everything was ideal, even group dynamic. Walking the stairs of the Inca I was overcome by two main thoughts: 1. How amazing it was to be hiking the same steps as the Inca once did! and 2. Which genius decided to make the stairs soo steep?! As we passed ruin after ruin and pieced together the emphatic descriptions from our proudly animated guide, Ruben, we began to understand the intricacy and planning behind these protected routes. The trail was not simply a path to Machu Picchu, but was layered with history, symbolism, and networked connections of trade, security, agriculture, and royalty. Learning and seeing the network unfold over the four days, 39 kilometers, and thousands of stairs was a truly unique opportunity that created a mental setting for the breathtaking Machu Picchu itself. On the final morning we woke up at 4:30 to begin the last 7 kilometers in the rain. A quiet disbelieving silence blanketed all of us, no one wanting to recognize the fact that rain had caught us on the final morning, that airport security had finally allowed the bad hiking luck to pass. Sweat under my water-proof jacket only added to the clammy feeling inside, but walk on I did. The rain faucet finally sealed its drip about 30 minutes hike from Machu Picchu and by the time we reached Intipunku (The Sun Gate) the clouds appeared to have cleared, save one covering the entire site. Maybe it was not to be... but patience held us at the top, and before our eyes the last slivers of the white puff dissolved into air rendering an uninhibited view of the mystical masterpiece! Not wanting to stop there we explored the entire ruins and added several more stairs to our day in order to capture the view from the famous peak of Huayna Picchu before finally returning content and cansado (tired) to Cuzco.

Following the Inca Trail, Priyanka returned to Quito, her family flew back to the States, and Hudson and I started our trek southward. We bused into Bolivia, paid the hefty $135 reciprocity fee, and happened upon a speech by Mr. Evo Morales, the president of Bolivia himself. Aside from the expected fanfare, the substance was lacking. So we just snapped a couple of pictures, laughed at Mr. Morales' proposition that Lake Titicaca should be considered one of the seven wonders of the world, and continued on our 17 km hike from Copacacabana to Yampupata. On the way, we came across a lone traveler from New York who joined us for the remainder of the hike and two nights on the Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun). That evening we enjoyed a picturesque sunset and views of snowcapped peaks from atop Titicaca, one of the highest navigable lakes in the world. Surrounded by water and beautifully terraced slopes we went exploring. The stroll around the island somehow turned into over 20 kilometers of hiking and several arguments to avoid from having to pay for entrance tickets to archaeological sites we had no intentions of visiitng. In one case an absurdly fit Bolivian lady even proceded to chase us down the trail while we gasped for oxygen!!

In the next week we quickly visited: Sorata, a small town close to the Rainforest; La Paz, the strangely desolate but geographically stunning capital; and Potosi, the highest city in the world and at one time one of the wealthiest cities in South America because of its silver mining industry. These three cities, however, were simply on the route to the highlight of our journey south...Los Salares de Uyuni (The Salt Flats)!! Satisfied, thanks to Boston style pizza at an American owned joint in Uyuni, we set off on a three day tour of the salt flats and "other" sights in southwest Bolivia. Little did we know that the "other" sites would fall in the category of "most amazing landscapes we have ever seen." The tour was unbelievable and definitely a must do for anyone backpacking in South America. Rainbow colored mountains bordering windsept deserts that would have made even Salvador Dali jealous, glowing red lakes dotted with flocks of flamingos, towering rock formations like natural skyscrapers on the horizon, vast expanses of white salt replacing any concept of ground I previously held, volcanos constantly spewing ash into the air above, the landscapes are endless, jaw-dropping, and truly unique throughout southwest Bolivia. Let the pictures speak for themselves...

Post Bolivia, we turned onto the final stretch, crossing over into Argentina for a quick bike ride through the Quebrada de Humahuaca and a more significant stop for a couple of days in Mendoza, Argentina. There we sipped on some of the Malbec wines Argentina is known for, toured the vineyards on bikes that took a blast from the past, and danced away with the host family of our buddy, Anita, Priyanka's sister who is doing a semester abroad there. Well rested and slightly spoiled, we night bused into Santiago, Chile, for our last hurrah. In Santiago we were joined by Priyanka on her spring break and our good friend Shepard, who I had spent a summer with in Ghana and who is currently starting on a two year Master's program in Chile! Our group enjoyed a getaway frequenting the cafes of the well known photographer's paradise, Valparaiso, before returning to Santiago to each take our separate ways!

And all of that brings me to where I am now, back home, sitting on the couch typing away on my laptop already reminiscing, while I look forward to a new transition into a very exciting phase. Regular checking of email brought me thirteen documents from medical school and plenty of reminders that much needs to be organized! So, this means that this is the last blog post I will write for the time being as my South American adventures have come full circle. I thank all of you for following along with me and staying in touch and I hope you have enjoyed reading. Now enjoy the final slideshow with plenty of pictures that hopefully capture at least some of the natural beauty South America has to offer!!

All the Best,

Amit

NOTE: Scroll to bottom for most recent slideshow

¿Dónde Debo Empezar? (Where Should I Begin?)

Immediately following my previous blog I walked into a transition timezone leading to a blur that I am only now, over a month later, trying to clear. I noticed the winds picking up, but rather than trying to resist I was speedily carried away through five floating weeks without ever finding a rest stop. Somehow, I have now been dropped back in Quito with time to think and to share!

At the beginning of February I finally recognized the sound of the ticking clock and realized that my six month period with Rotary was drawing to a close before I ever imagined it would. On past international travels I have noticed how fast time seems to pass. Your lived experience equates to a constant bombardment of new thoughts, words, smells, encounters, and style of life, that once summed, does not allow a "routine" in the true sense of the word to create the stagnancy that makes time slow down. It is an interesting state that I think many of you who have traveled abroad may relate to. As I ponder the incredulity of six months already gone, I also note the sheer quantity of ideas and adventures that have filled the time. It has been like a Cadbury's chocolate bar...so good that you eat it before you know you even started, but even after it's physically gone, the unforgettable flavor hangs on.

The second week of February was the goodbye week at my language school for Shigeki, the six month Japanese Rotary Scholar, and myself. Both of us had coincidentally started our classes on the same day, September 1, 2008, and so finished on the same day as well, February 13, 2009. With classes seven hours a day and one-on-one for an extended period of time, we had shared great conversations, overcome linguistic frustrations, learned to appreciate different teaching and learning styles, and most of all, become friends as opposed to simple teachers and students. Each of us gave our final presentations, which amounted to an hour of nerves and sweat and a desire to do justice to all the work our professors had done in our benefit. And then on lucky Friday, February the 13th, we celebrated our happy despedida (farewell).

Hours later my family landed and we took off on a trip to the Galapagos that exceeded all expectations. The islands are worth every ounce of credit they receive. What amazed me, even more than the untouched beauty, was the unnatural relationship between animal and human. The Galapagos, to the science mind, has been inextricably linked to the theory of evolution, and I felt it immediately in the presence of the wild sea lions, iguanas, blue-footed boobies and numerous other animals. The animals, living in isolation, have never felt a threat from humans, and therefore paid no attention to our presence, allowing for us to venture within inches without creating even a stir. The closeness and variety of unique life was truly impressive. Priyanka, who traveled with us, actually already wrote a great blog on our Galapagos adventures and if you are interested in more I recommend reading what she had to say.

Refreshed from a week in the sun, my parents and brother returned to work in the states, and I took off on a two week hiking trip with Hudson to southern Ecuador. On our first stop, Quilotoa, we were accompanied by Priyanka, Ingred and Angella, and had a great time hiking the crater lake together. Quilotoa is a 3 km in diameter lake that now sits in the caldera created by the collapse of the volcano in an eruption that took place approximately 800 years ago. Thanks to the alkaline content and dissolved minerals the lake has a beautiful turquoise color in the shade that shifts to a green glow in the sun. One of the most breath-taking sights I have seen, and definitely the highlight of my two week backpacking stint, the path along the ridge line circumference of the lake was awesome!

After hiking the lake the girls returned to Quito and Hudson and I gathered are packs. We embarked on the approximately 8 mile hike to the small town of Chugchilan. Following Lonely Planet's description of sandy spots, broken signs, and several two and three-way forks in the road, we found are way from the lake, down to the base of a canyon, past an eight foot jump across a river, and back up to the plateau town of Chugchilan. The picturesque hike afforded great views to go with our tired legs that we were more than happy to put up in hammocks at one of the greatest hostels in Ecuador, Hostal Mama Hilda. Chugchilan was a town of coincidences and happy meetings. There, I properly met a couple I had seen jump off a boat in the Galapagos a week before and was reunited with four friends from England that had actually been on our boat in the Galapagos.

Passing on the milk truck exit out of Chugchilan because of logistical reasons, Hudson and I endured 14 hours of travel on a total of three different buses to make it to Cuenca the next evening. In Cuenca we met up with Ashley, a friend from Fayetteville, and quickly moved on to Vilcabamba, a quaint town set in the folds of the southern mountains of Ecuador. Known as the valley of longevity, the area is "reputed to have beneficial effects on the health and life span of human beings." Who knows if my three days there will have any long term effects, but I most definitely felt healthy relaxing in Hostal Izhcayluma, swimming, and hiking around the area. Unfortunately, in Vilcabamba, also began our streak of bad hiking luck:

Hike 1: White out conditions walking through pure mud to a cloud covered peak in Parque Nacional Podacarpus
Hike 2: Diverted on three different trail attempts by five bulls that lead me to make concerned calls to our taxi driver for advice on how to react when face to face with a bull
Hike 3: Up to the refuge of Cotopaxi and above reaching almost 5,000 meters only to remain in clouds and mist the whole time without ever getting a glimpse of the peak
Hike 4: Plan to climb Volcan Corazón failed the morning of due to bad weather and instead we returned to Quito

To go with the bad luck, however, we shared several laughs, games of rummy, and beautiful views of other peaks from our 37 hours of bus rides!!! Travel through the south was a fabulous journey that brought us back to Quito feeling a little fitter and very excited about all the adventures to come!

Since retuning to Quito I have enjoyed a busy week thanks to the overlap of U.S. spring breaks that has lead to visits from several friends. Last weekend we made a getaway to Baños for a downhill bike ride with Hudson's girlfriend Jamie, and our friend Leigh, who was studying abroad here in Ecuador last semester. And this week Priyanka's parents are around and we have enjoyed exploring Quito together. So basically, a couple more meals, a fun night out, and Friday morning I will hop on a plane to Peru. Next week brings a hike to Machu Picchu and the beginnings of southern explorations through Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile, that culminate on April 14th in Santiago! There is no telling how internet will be in the next couple of weeks, but I will do me best to post if I can. Over and out from Quito!!

El Retorno (The Return)

A quick respite and recharge back in the States has left this blog slightly subdued for a little over a month, but TheGuptaman has returned to Quito for the second half of his adventures. He apologizes for the long absence, but looks forward to a return to random ramblings.

This half of the travels has taken a rapid start as life has seriously picked up steam. Language school is monumentally more fun thanks to the arrival of Anita (Priyanka's sister who will soon be studying abroad in Argentina), Hudson (my good friend from UNC who will be my traveling companion for my backpacking segment), and Angella (an always smiling Rotary Scholar from Atlanta). As I transition out of grammar studies and into literature and idiomatic expressions in these last two weeks at Academía de Español I am reminded of a fascinating linguistic aspect of Spanish that tells a lot about the culture and concept of affection. In none of my past travels have I found it not just okay, but endearing, to call a girl "fatty," but here it is made possible by a simple suffix, "-ita."

A Quick "-ita" Lesson:
The Spanish word for fat is "gordo" when referring to a male and "gorda" when referring to a female. Around the house and about the streets you are sure to hear a mother lovingly call her pleasantly plump daughter, "gordita", or a wife relate a story about her overweight husband, "gordito." Many Americans, I am sure, would find it shocking and probably even downright rude to call someone the equivalent of "chubby one," but lets try to see this in an emic way. This is a fascinating, and I believe, valuable aspect of the language that shows how people can have different understandings of physical beauty and appreciate each other for all their uniqueness. The idea of adding "-ita" to an adjective to add affection extends to several different words too (chinita - little chinese one, negrita - little black one, flaquita - skinny one).
Warning: Do not get too excited and incorporate this into your daily English. Somehow, I believe it could lead to undesired consequences.

Spanish subtleties aside, these first couple of weeks back in Quito have been very busy with two weekends of travel, the creation of an unstoppable gringo basketball team, renewed salsa lessons, new nicknames and more. We made a return trip to Mindo in a sizeable group of seven + one amazing Englishwoman, Angie, whom we adopted at the bus station. The daily rain of my first week back in Quito gave way to brilliant sunshine in Mindo making for a much more enjoyable day of ziplining over the cloud-forest. Unlike our first visit, this time I did not find myself wishing that my glasses came equipped with windshield wipers. We also returned to the waterfall hiking ground, but sloshed our way through the mud to a different, much less-frequented waterfall. Strangely enough, four of us were wearing brand new sneakers at the start, but emerged with different shades of brown covering our soles. The mud seemed to assume a mind of its own during the hike out and the men folk, myself included, emerged thankful that we had survived a hair-raising, cloud forest right of passage that led to a shirtless exit.

Post Mindo (kudos to Hudson for embarking on the adventure only five hours after arriving in Quito from the States) we returned to the grind of seven a day classes, but found ways to create variety. I have thoroughly appreciated the return to Tuesdays and Thursdays in the southern Camal Market where I enjoy conversing with our friends who battle the Diabetes, Cholesterol, and Hypertension Cocktail with a pill + inadvisable chicken and rice for breakfast. The number of interested patients has increased and we continue to try to push for the addition of fruits and vegetables in their diets, but I mean, who can resist a big chicken with white rice, mmm.

Salsa lessons are back in swing as Angella, Anita, and Hudson have joined the fun. And now that an additional gringo has arrived in town, Will, Peter, Hudson, and I have begun to frequent the local basketball courts to represent for Estados Unidos. Currently, undefeated in group play, we look forward to maintaining the chemistry in this unlikely situation that brought together the talent of UCLA and UNC in a powerhouse not to be soon forgotten. The chance friendships created off the court have also led to promises, that I doubt will be fulfilled, for me to receive free lessons from a makeshift professor - the cursing negrito on the basketball court - on the Spanish he claims I need, but will not learn in the classroom.

As I look ahead, I see a banana milkshake being prepared with breakfast, an ultimate frisbee game brewing in less than 24 hours, a multi-course meal and boardgames for Peter's birthday, and a visit from family plus a trip to the Galapagos just appearing on the horizon. With plenty of excitement ahead, I also bring a promise to return to writing regularly with a hope that you won't find it a bore.

And, let us part with some random tidbits:

1. Hudson, will from this day on be called Utsent by me thanks to the fact that this is how his name was spelled at the Salsa School.
2. Rum and coke was served at our language school at 11:00 AM...definitely, would not fly in the States.
3. Angella is called "la bebé" (the baby) by her host mother and often finds herself waving at airplanes to be polite and fit in with her host family
4. My internet is not working so I can't actually post this now. This will probably be posted a day after true completion.

A huge abrazo (hug) to all!!

From Amarongachia to Shangri-la

This tale of a trip through the Amazon will take you on a journey from Amarongachia (Indigenous Quichua word meaning "hunting ground of the boa") to Shangri-la ("a remote paradise where life approaches perfection, ideal for relaxing and developing a connection with the natural world").

Quick timeframe:
Departure - November 15th, 7:00 AM
Stay at Cabanas Amarongachi - November 15th-16th
Stay at Cabanas Shangrila - November 17th-20th
Return - November 21st, 4:30 PM

Prestart: November 14th, 9:00 PM
Hiking pack sits in the corner of the room behind the Samsonite wheeler. A steady supporter that usually takes a back seat to the smaller bookbag, needs a dusting before being summoned back to the front ranks. Repellent 32% deet CHECK. Impenetrable rain shells CHECK. Arsenal of quick drying gear CHECK. Headlamp CHECK. Freezer size Ziploc back of medications - Epipen included - that the influenced son of two doctors would not enter the Amazon without CHECK.
It's go time.

November 15th, 6:00 Am
While I struggle to rouse myself from the horizontal to the vertical, Stan, the 63 year old adventurous student from Colorado, also going on the Amazon trip, frightens his Japanese compatriot, Shige, awake with his energetic outbursts of excitement. It's unknown how the profs, Fredy and Sylvana, or the fourth student, Kat, meet the morning light. Regardless, we, the crew manage to conform to appropriate time schedules, unite at the language school at 7:00 AM, and are aboard the Amazonas bus line at 8:00 AM. After six hours, we arrive in Tena, our outfit point for getting boots, eating lunch, and signing away our rights on the waiver forms. The evening ushers in a fitting rainstorm just as we begin our hike to our cabins, but, thanks to the impenetrable rain gear, everybody arrives safely and commences on the evening medicinal hike. Our first taste of the Amazon is quite literal. A plant that helps repel mosquitoes, another for blood circulation, and a third for headaches. Naturally medicated, we all drift to sleep ready for the beginning.

November 16th and 17th
The morning view is absolutely gorgeous. Banana leaf palms skirt the left while lush greenery gives way to the Rio Jatunyacu in front. Amarongachi, quite the place to sink into one of the many hammocks. Unfortunately, the hammock is not on schedule for the morning. Instead, we endure four hours of classes in the heat and humidity (started almost every morning of the week like this). The cascadas hike is our first test scheduled for this balmy Sunday. Surprised to hear that Stan is planning to attempt the climb, we exit the protection of the lodge in our rubber boots. The plan is to follow a creek up a nearby slope and ascend three waterfalls along the route. Unlike earlier, we are now thankful for the sunshine and the refreshing climb to come. The hike is gorgeous as expected, from the highly unnatural, but greatly appreciated tree ladder, to the occasional collection ponds that call for refreshing dips. Stan, remembering his college days in climbing club, manages to climb each of the waterfalls, obtain a battle scar while submersing himself in the water hole , and traverse the intertwined vegetation blanketing the entire descent to the cabins. Thankfully, the following morning calls for a relaxing float down the river while our professor, Sylvana, recovers from the hallucinogenic afterthoughts of a Shamanic Cleansing Ritual.

Necessary excerpt on Stan:
A true inspiration for anyone. Age 63. Height 5 foot 10. Of average build, slight gut, and sparse hair. The same individual that startled Shige awake with his triple-threat stance and enthusiastic bellow on day 1. A man from Colorado who can teach us all an important lesson about living. I was strongly impacted by Stan's presence and could not resist telling him how much I appreciated having him along. He exuded a positive and youthful glow, ripe for experiencing new adventures. I was naturally curious as to what would motivate a retired 63 year old to travel alone to Ecuador and enroll in a Spanish language school with no past knowledge of the language? His explanation..."I was in Wal-Mart one day with a good friend of mine shopping for some household supplies. Observing the bi-lingual signs written in Spanish and English, I casually joked about some of the Spanish words. I did not know what I was talking about, but thought there was some humor in the writing. My friend, however, who was well-versed in her Spanish ability, told me that prior to joking I should think about learning the language and understanding the culture...and so...here I am. A month in language school in Quito followed by a couple weeks in Peru, all interspersed with some travels. Ideas?" Fabulous. Truly living life knowing life can only be lived once!

November 18th-20th
Morning. Sun rises to lift the shadows from our new home, Shangrila. We arrived yesterday under the double-cover of night and a thick, leafy canopy that rendered our attempts at orientation useless. The face-lift at dawn, however, gives way to an unbelievable view below. Situated on a cliff overlooking the Rio Anzu, we can the see the "S" of a river carrying the browns of the jungle floor along its path through the lush greenery. Indescribable beauty yet to be explored. As quickly as we have absorbed our surroundings we are placed within them. An hour hike and we find a new creek to follow through the rainforest of my imagination. Terraces of spider webs, spade shaped leaves the size of my torso, lemon ants for a snack during pause, slippery black rocks, beady-eyed bats peppering the canyon walls, innumerable vines growing upon vines, the constant drip-drop of droplets, this is the Amazon.

The next day we stay at water's-edge to travel in tubes to the local indigenous community of Santa Monica. We meet Monica, the village's namesake herself, and share an afternoon sip of the traditional drink, chicha de yuca. Here, where the village elder is the doctor, the advice giver, the shaman, the store owner, the trader, and more, life slows down to a peaceful pace, kids invent games without electrical foundations, and animals pick at bananas growing on trees. Everything ticks to the clock of nature in harmonious melody. On return, dusk creeps in inviting the evening ecosystem of insects that builds itself around the lights near the outdoor sinks. The glow attracts a swarm of flying bugs that naturally cease flying and become food for the larger crawlers. These crawlers then attract the insects that had never before entered my imagination. Cockroaches best kept yards a way, grasshoppers with spikes on their legs, tarantulas with furry protrusions, ants the size of my thumb, butterflies that could pass as leaves, tree branches that walk the wall, this is the Amazon.

From Amarongachia to Shangrila we shared in many a card game of Capitalism, did not let a moment pass without laughter, enhanced an already strong appreciation for nature, and experienced a new world of life. This was the Amazon!

Note: Many more pictures in the slideshow below!

Listo (Ready)

Ready to write following a long absence. There is much to tell. The blog dropped off the face of Earth prior to an adventure filled weekend in Ecuador's outdoor thrill town, Banos. Knowing that the feriados (public holidays) are great weekends for travel, we had been patiently waiting for a three day'r to approach to allow for a trip to Banos. Finally, with one in our sites we booked our hostel for the first weekend of November. We left at first light on Saturday morning, so we could arrive as the sun switched directions, with time to set our bearings and go for a nearby hike. Spotting a cafe set into the ridge overlooking Banos, we quickly decided that that would be the ideal destination for the evening. A couple hours uphill and dripping from the afternoon showers, we sneaked, well out of place, into the Cafe del Cielo (Cafe of the Sky). The cafe, technically open to the public, is in actuality a main snacking destination for residents of the nearby Luna Runtun hotel, a pricey vacation spot for classy travelers. Without hesitation though, we took advantage of the open to public policy, took our seats, ordered our cappuccinos, and enjoyed a nice game of cards with Banos unraveling beneath us.

The next day called for an early start. Rented mountain bikes beneath us, we pedaled out of town and onto the 21 km Ruta de las Cascadas (Route of the Waterfalls). A common route taken by many travelers, this largely downhill ride was fabulous, aside from the one pitch black tunnel we were required to pass. We enjoyed coasting down several hills and stopping intermittently to hike waterfalls that caught our eye. Baked from the heat we finally arrived at the prize waterfall of the route, the Pailon del Diablo, a twisting waterfall that comes crashing down into a rocky basin.

While this day was a day of views, the next gave way to a entirely new experience... cascading. Surprisingly able to fit into a size too small wetsuit with a happily purple front face and stylish over the shoulder buttons, I harnessed myself in on the misty Monday morning. (Thankfully, the yellow flack jacket covered my humorous suit, leaving only my shoelace tied glasses to laugh it). We made our way to the first of four waterfalls, the baby eight meter practice one and I quickly fell on my way down. That led to the rise of subconscious concerns regarding the upcoming 40 meter decent. Climbing to the next cascada, however, quickly sent the intermittent thoughts back into the subconscious as I regained a feel for the footing. The subsequent parallel walks went uneventfully and we proudly returned to Banos with a strong desire for nothing but hot chocolate and a return to our favorite restaurant, Cafe Hood, for the third time. One of three hoods and goods (Cafe Hood, Casa Hood, Cafe Good) in Banos, this quickly emerged as a keeper. With a variety of tasty twists such as Indian Chola, Chicken Curry Sandwiches, Ginger-Lemon Tea, and Chocolate Cake, we were more than satisfied.

Post Banos adventures, the body was due for a break and adventure travelling was shelved for the following weekend. Instead, Priyanka and I took a trip to Otavalo in search of indigenous family friends of a Professor couple from UNC-Chapel Hill. Priyanka was provided a highly interesting set of directions, but we somehow trusted they would lead us to the end point. Following the cobble stone roads that went right, left, and u-turned before merging with bigger cobble stone roads that crossed bridges and Coca-Cola signs, we fortunately found are way into the store front of the family we were searching for. Gloriously gobbling vanilla wafers, chocolate biscuits, and coca-colas purchased from their store, we happily took our seats amongs the pigs, chickens, and dogs to share a moment with our new friends hanging on the thread of a 1,000 mile plus connection. It was fascinating to imagine that that same house was where a twenty year old college student, now a professor at UNC, had once spent his summer pursuing his anthropological calling.

Refreshed from a worldly visit, a week of subjunctive tense studies in Spanish School quickly passed marking time for insertion into the Amazon...

Random Tidbits:

1. My second cousin arrived in Quito to work on her doctoral research!

2. I received a crisp one dollar bill in change for potentially the first time in three months!

3. Endured a new style of torture personally deemed, "absurdly inappropriate public display of affection." Highly perturbed by the couple in front of me on the public bus, I began to count the number of times they kissed in 15 minutes. The result of my empirical study showed that with 74 kisses in 15 minutes, it was probable that I was forced to endure the sound and sight of approximately 222 kisses in my painful 45 minute ride home from Salsa Class...WHY?!?

P.S. Due to my long absence from blog world I will be making an effort to double up this week and provide you all with a second blog post by this coming weekend. By way of the mere fact that I am typing this blog, you at least know that I survived a week in the Amazon, but the rest will be shared soon! (Pictures are already up though, with captions included!)

Novedades (New News)

I am afraid of writing any more about cookies because my last blog post definitely jinxed my luck, but I must recount the happenings. The Monday after I posted I arrived at school to sadly find that Villa Colombia had been closed by the government for not having payed their taxes. On the brink of devastation I stumbled into school unable to put words together. Colombia...por que...no entiendo...galletas...Colombia? Unsure of the future of my cookie provider, I continued aimlessly through the morning and was forced to settle for a piece of chocolate cake at the fast food restaurant across the street. Sadly observing this new dessert in my hand I started to drag myself back towards school when good luck returned in the form of one of the regular employees from Villa Colombia. Having exchanged glances he could easily read the forlorn expression on my face and without me having said a word, he filled the gap, "No te preocupes. Las galletas van a estar listas el jueves." (Don't you worry. The cookies will be ready Thursday.) Needless to say, I no longer take the cookies for granted.

On a non-gluttonous note, this Tuesday marks two months and I don't know where the time has gone. It's amazing how fast time is passing as my days always seem to end before I am ready for them to. When abroad my senses are satiated with new experiences, cultural differences, stimulating conversations, welcome inspirations and more; and, each day only ends with me being unable to absorb everything, but ready to squeeze the sponge and reabsorb more the next day. I am having a fabulous time here and have been very fortunate to find fulfilling volunteer work at an organization called CENIT. Every Tuesday and Thursday, I now go to CENIT in the morning (and take my Spanish classes in the afternoon instead) where I help co-run the Clinica de Calle (Street Clinic) program with Priyanka. We are still in the organizational stages as we have only been working for CENIT for a week and a half, but we are really excited about the potential this program has. Our basic role is to develop relationships with the workers in a couple markets in Southern Quito, try to identify and take progress notes on the people who need medical care, and ensure that those people receive free medical appointments as well as take the appropriate medications on a regular basis. Going to the Camal Market this past Tuesday was both exciting and overwhelming. It was so nice to talk to the people and learn about the wonderful work that the past nurses who ran this project were doing, but it was equally trying to return to CENIT and learn of the budget crunch that may make it difficult to fulfill their needs for diabetes, hypertension, arthiritis, and cholesterol medications among other things. Nonetheless, we are optimistic that we can fundraise for supplies as we continue to build relationships and provide health care for our friends in Camal!!

And other news of the past couple of weeks is that:

1. I went to Canoa, a small beach town where I made chocolate on an organic farm and attempted surfing for the first time (Thanks Peter)!!
2. Endured a miserably cold and rainy day at the soccer stadium to be warmed by a fabulous 1-0 victory for Ecuador against Chile.
3. Celebrated two friends' birthdays on one day!
4. Finished reading my first book by Gabriel Garcia Marquez.
5. Rode the Teleferico up to 4100 meters atop the volcanic mountains of western Quito.
6. Had a successful Skype conference call with my mom and dad at home, brother in Wisconsin, and grandparents on another computer!

Las Galletas En La Esquina (The Cookies on the Corner)

Everyday, when the clock hits 10:30 AM, the time for a respite between classes, a sudden urge wells up from deep inside. An urge to splurge on something yummy. An addiction, yes, an addiction. An addiction that can only be counteracted by post-indulgence exercise, because it is an addiction I cannot mentally resist. An addiction whose foundation was laid many a year ago and is only now coming to full fruition. An addiction that friends and family will definitely understand. I cannot, however, accept blame. The culprit is a small tienda on the corner of my street that incessantly breathes flavor into the light breeze, warming and wafting through the vents and windows of my fifth floor classroom. The smell, the picture, the thought of just one more cookie is too too good. What can I do when the smell of fresh baked cookies and chocolate teases me for two hours straight. Tell me if you have a solution, because in the month I have been here I have come to accept that there is no solution but to indulge. A fresh baked cookie everyday is absolutely necessary thanks to Villa Colombia, the tienda that produces a steady supply of galletas en la esquina. The consequences of this addiction are a steady intake of carbs and a new nickname...goloso (sweet-toothed).

In the last two weeks much has happened. The weekend immediately following my last post I travelled to Mindo, an outdoorsy town nestled amidst cloud forests. It was a refreshing weekend that included many firsts aside from getting drenched without a spare pair of shoes:
1. Having a butterfly rest on my hand
2. Literally ziplining through the clouds
3. Hiking past waterfalls in the cloud forest
4. And eating fresh-baked brownies three days in a row!
(Just in case it is necessary to clarify I have definitely had brownies three days in a row, but never fresh-baked brownies three days in a row...highly recommend it.)

The following week ushered in one of my proudest school moments to date, successfully cooking Onion Bhajis (Indian Onion Fritters). Each Friday we have a different presentation we are asked to deliver, and this Friday, the 26th of September, each of us were asked to prepare a dish representative of our respective home country and give some background to our country and the dish we prepared. Devoid of access to the numerous Indian spices and slightly daunted by the idea of attempting a lavish dish, I decided to do my best to prepare an Indian appetizer. Jesse and I co-invaded our friend Peter's apartment and set to work on our deep-fried artery blockers, in effect, destroying any hopes Peter had of maintaining a pleasant smelling habitat. Fortunately, our guinea pigs at school the following day did not have to see or smell the operation that led to the production of Jesse's Chile Rellenos or my Onion Bhajis, but I would like to believe that, the fact that everything was finished was proof of a successful day in the kitchen!

The following Saturday, September 27th, our Ecuadorian friend (an indescribably nice girl) Maria Fernanda, took Peter, Leigh, Priyanka, and I on a splendid excursion to Papallacta. Lonely Planet describes this place as the perfect reward "after a sweaty jungle expedition or arduous hike." After my experience, however, I think it would be appropriate to add that it is also the perfect way to start a lazy Saturday. The soothing water of these natural hot springs was a timely treat for my twenty-two year old bones. All of us enjoyed moving from pool to pool spread out on different levels and even took part in the tradition of taking a frigid dip into the nearby river for photos (that I don't as yet have...sorrry). Peter, fitting to the Latin definition of machismo insisted that the water was not cold even as goosebumps began forming. Regardless, all of us enjoyed the tingly sensation one feels upon returning to warmer waters.

Aside from these happenings life has continued to be very busy with a variety of pursuits. I am happy to have become good friends with several of the other Rotary Scholars and all of us are thankful for having found a local Rotaract Club.
This club's activities seem very promising and we intend on attending meetings every two weeks, granted we are in Quito, to discuss relevant topics for our generation as well as assist them in achieving their major goal, the construction of a school about an hour outside of Quito. Work with Priyanka's Rotary Club is also looking good as this past weekend both of us had the opportunity to volunteer at a mobile clinic run by her club. I also finally began taking Salsa lessons last Thursday, went to another soccer game that was unreal (Liga - The Best Club Team in Quito vs. Boca Juniors - Potentially The Most Famous Club Team in South America),


watched the first set of presidential debates with a slew of other politically charged American students, visited the emotionally moving museum of Guayasamin, felt like I hit my second wind learning Spanish and am highly energized to keep it going and, as of now, updated my blog!!!

Mitad Del Mundo Y Mas (Middle of the World and More)

Friday, September 5, 2008

The line where water falls straight down, where an egg can balance on a nail, where the powerful feel powerless...welcome to La Mitad Del Mundo, the Middle of the World, the actual equator. For an afternoon activity with my language school, we took a local bus 15 miles north to the site of a fun museum called Inti-Nan. There we were able to literally walk along the equator and participate in different experiments that illustrate the unusual forces present at the equator. It is said that water flows down a drain counter-clockwise in the northern hemisphere and clockwise in the southern hemisphere, and one experiment did in fact illustrate this. Our guide used a plugged sink full of water and a couple of leaves to allow us to see the direction of water flow after the sink was unplugged in each of three locations...north of the equator, on the equator, and south of the equator. The result was that water flowed counter-clockwise, straight down, and clockwise, respectively. Interesting?! Further research online indicates that this "coriolis" effect cannot actually be seen in experimental situations and is only urban legend, but I guess who really knows because I think what I saw was legit. So these experiments may not have settled anything, but it was a fun trip to the middle of the world regardless.

Saturday, September 6, 2008
I cannot tell you how long I have dreamt of going to an actual soccer game of grand magnitude. Fans going crazy for the love of futbol (not American football, basketball or baseball), but soccer, the true global sport. Having feasted gluttonously on delicious crepes at what is not surprisingly my current favorite restaurant in Quito, Crepes & Waffles, we happily walked over to the stadium more than an hour before game time to get good seats and get pumped. The scene was set and the stakes were high in this World Cup Qualifier, and Ecuador, seriously in need of a win against Bolivia, was poised to triumph. The stadium was virtually full and the fans went crazy as the Ecuadorian Jugadores finally emerged minutes prior to kickoff strangely ready to play without warming up. Fifteen minutes in, Bolivia lost a player to a quick red card and Ecuador took advantage with an upper ninety blast from outside the eighteen. Bolivia, responded with a goal of their own, however, and were looking to turn things around when the referee sent them packing again. Foul words from Bolivia's coach led to him being ejected under a storm of spanish curse words raining from the stands. The scene was spectacular and only became better as additional adrenaline was injected in the second half through the delivery of two more goals on the way to a 3-1 victory for Ecuador. Surround by the yelllow, blue, and red of Ecuador, we filed out of the stadium contently covered in celebratory cerveza (beer)!

Following the soccer celebrations and a weekend in Quito I returned to the routine of classes, which seemed to move monumentally faster now that I actually new my way around, had a cell phone, and was beginning to feel more comfortable speaking Spanish. I think more important than all of these things, however, was the fact that on Monday, when I walked into class my professor was wearing a UNC hat!! I already knew she was great, but this sealed the deal, I immediately went to the director of the language school and requested to continue classes with my professor, Sila, as long as possible.

Last Weekend
The first true getaway was a welcome break from the rush of Quito. A group of seven of us (Priyanka, Peter, Jesse, Beth, Alana, Leigh, and I) came together for a trip to Otavalo, a small town about 2 hours outside of Quito that is considered to have one of the largest artisan markets in all of South America. After a couple hiccups preceding our Friday evening travel, everything went smoothly. We made base at Residencial El Rocio, a clean family run hostal that was fabulous aside for the Saturday evening accusation we received for "supposedly" paying with a counterfeit $20 bill (counterfeit money is an issue here, and for someone like me that could be a problem because I definitely don't know the difference). We slipped out Saturday morning to explore the markets before taking a taxi out of town to the magical tree called El Lechero. Seeing this tree and the view from the breezy hilltop was definitely a highlight. The intertwined branches with smoothed knarls spoke of years of friendly existence watching over Otavalo. Quiet reflection under El Lechero gave way to the annual wooden go kart race we were lucky enough to witness as we were able to hitch a ride back down the mountain and join the town in cheering on the racers! And Sunday was more low key as a couple of us went for a breezy but beautiful hike around Laguna Mojada!

Aside from these adventures life has been really busy as I have become accustomed to a schedule I never thought possible (rising daily at between 6:30 and 7:00 AM!!!). Long days are definitely the norm and I don't know where time goes. In the last week we also got the opportunity to see the Rotary International President as he was in Quito for part of his South American tour. And my Rotary Club gave me a contract for the construction of a school and asked that I translate it into English so they can present it for grants in the U.S. (Yikes!?!) I feel like that catches me up to today, Thursday, 11:08 PM and my eyes are closing. Ready to crawl into bed knowing that by the morning my bed sheet will have risen up to about waste level while my blankets will stay put. Strange phenomenon that I can't seem to prevent from happening...I think it's because they don't tuck the bedsheet under the matress in my house, but the one day I did that, it didn't change anything. Maybe next blog I'll have it figured out! Till then, I wish you all the best, and as always, look forward to hearing from you. Hasta luego!