El Último Post (The Final Post)

April 24th and I find myself...HOME! After months of travels and experiences I am finally back with stories that will stay with me forever. Some of you have already been surprised to see me back in Fayetteville without a blog post to explain how or when I returned!

The last month was the most bus, sleeping bag and cold floor inundated month of my entire time abroad. Backpacking month began with a flight from Quito, Ecuador, to Cuzco, Peru, on March 13th and ended with a flight from Santiago, Chile, back to Quito on April 14th. It was a month that kept us physically above 10,000 feet, mentally out of the box, and emotionally over the clouds!

We started where many would end, with a hike through time along the path of the Inca to the sacred site of Machu Picchu. The travel group was comprised of Hudson, Priyanka and her family, a quad of Canadians, two pairs from the States, a slew of porters, cooks, and guides, and yours truly. Acclimated from Quito and a couple of days in Cuzco, we embarked with light bags that would strangely seem to accumulate weight over the next couple of days. Weather was pristine and the bad hiking luck was fortunately held up in airport security in Ecuador. Everything was ideal, even group dynamic. Walking the stairs of the Inca I was overcome by two main thoughts: 1. How amazing it was to be hiking the same steps as the Inca once did! and 2. Which genius decided to make the stairs soo steep?! As we passed ruin after ruin and pieced together the emphatic descriptions from our proudly animated guide, Ruben, we began to understand the intricacy and planning behind these protected routes. The trail was not simply a path to Machu Picchu, but was layered with history, symbolism, and networked connections of trade, security, agriculture, and royalty. Learning and seeing the network unfold over the four days, 39 kilometers, and thousands of stairs was a truly unique opportunity that created a mental setting for the breathtaking Machu Picchu itself. On the final morning we woke up at 4:30 to begin the last 7 kilometers in the rain. A quiet disbelieving silence blanketed all of us, no one wanting to recognize the fact that rain had caught us on the final morning, that airport security had finally allowed the bad hiking luck to pass. Sweat under my water-proof jacket only added to the clammy feeling inside, but walk on I did. The rain faucet finally sealed its drip about 30 minutes hike from Machu Picchu and by the time we reached Intipunku (The Sun Gate) the clouds appeared to have cleared, save one covering the entire site. Maybe it was not to be... but patience held us at the top, and before our eyes the last slivers of the white puff dissolved into air rendering an uninhibited view of the mystical masterpiece! Not wanting to stop there we explored the entire ruins and added several more stairs to our day in order to capture the view from the famous peak of Huayna Picchu before finally returning content and cansado (tired) to Cuzco.

Following the Inca Trail, Priyanka returned to Quito, her family flew back to the States, and Hudson and I started our trek southward. We bused into Bolivia, paid the hefty $135 reciprocity fee, and happened upon a speech by Mr. Evo Morales, the president of Bolivia himself. Aside from the expected fanfare, the substance was lacking. So we just snapped a couple of pictures, laughed at Mr. Morales' proposition that Lake Titicaca should be considered one of the seven wonders of the world, and continued on our 17 km hike from Copacacabana to Yampupata. On the way, we came across a lone traveler from New York who joined us for the remainder of the hike and two nights on the Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun). That evening we enjoyed a picturesque sunset and views of snowcapped peaks from atop Titicaca, one of the highest navigable lakes in the world. Surrounded by water and beautifully terraced slopes we went exploring. The stroll around the island somehow turned into over 20 kilometers of hiking and several arguments to avoid from having to pay for entrance tickets to archaeological sites we had no intentions of visiitng. In one case an absurdly fit Bolivian lady even proceded to chase us down the trail while we gasped for oxygen!!

In the next week we quickly visited: Sorata, a small town close to the Rainforest; La Paz, the strangely desolate but geographically stunning capital; and Potosi, the highest city in the world and at one time one of the wealthiest cities in South America because of its silver mining industry. These three cities, however, were simply on the route to the highlight of our journey south...Los Salares de Uyuni (The Salt Flats)!! Satisfied, thanks to Boston style pizza at an American owned joint in Uyuni, we set off on a three day tour of the salt flats and "other" sights in southwest Bolivia. Little did we know that the "other" sites would fall in the category of "most amazing landscapes we have ever seen." The tour was unbelievable and definitely a must do for anyone backpacking in South America. Rainbow colored mountains bordering windsept deserts that would have made even Salvador Dali jealous, glowing red lakes dotted with flocks of flamingos, towering rock formations like natural skyscrapers on the horizon, vast expanses of white salt replacing any concept of ground I previously held, volcanos constantly spewing ash into the air above, the landscapes are endless, jaw-dropping, and truly unique throughout southwest Bolivia. Let the pictures speak for themselves...

Post Bolivia, we turned onto the final stretch, crossing over into Argentina for a quick bike ride through the Quebrada de Humahuaca and a more significant stop for a couple of days in Mendoza, Argentina. There we sipped on some of the Malbec wines Argentina is known for, toured the vineyards on bikes that took a blast from the past, and danced away with the host family of our buddy, Anita, Priyanka's sister who is doing a semester abroad there. Well rested and slightly spoiled, we night bused into Santiago, Chile, for our last hurrah. In Santiago we were joined by Priyanka on her spring break and our good friend Shepard, who I had spent a summer with in Ghana and who is currently starting on a two year Master's program in Chile! Our group enjoyed a getaway frequenting the cafes of the well known photographer's paradise, Valparaiso, before returning to Santiago to each take our separate ways!

And all of that brings me to where I am now, back home, sitting on the couch typing away on my laptop already reminiscing, while I look forward to a new transition into a very exciting phase. Regular checking of email brought me thirteen documents from medical school and plenty of reminders that much needs to be organized! So, this means that this is the last blog post I will write for the time being as my South American adventures have come full circle. I thank all of you for following along with me and staying in touch and I hope you have enjoyed reading. Now enjoy the final slideshow with plenty of pictures that hopefully capture at least some of the natural beauty South America has to offer!!

All the Best,

Amit

NOTE: Scroll to bottom for most recent slideshow

¿Dónde Debo Empezar? (Where Should I Begin?)

Immediately following my previous blog I walked into a transition timezone leading to a blur that I am only now, over a month later, trying to clear. I noticed the winds picking up, but rather than trying to resist I was speedily carried away through five floating weeks without ever finding a rest stop. Somehow, I have now been dropped back in Quito with time to think and to share!

At the beginning of February I finally recognized the sound of the ticking clock and realized that my six month period with Rotary was drawing to a close before I ever imagined it would. On past international travels I have noticed how fast time seems to pass. Your lived experience equates to a constant bombardment of new thoughts, words, smells, encounters, and style of life, that once summed, does not allow a "routine" in the true sense of the word to create the stagnancy that makes time slow down. It is an interesting state that I think many of you who have traveled abroad may relate to. As I ponder the incredulity of six months already gone, I also note the sheer quantity of ideas and adventures that have filled the time. It has been like a Cadbury's chocolate bar...so good that you eat it before you know you even started, but even after it's physically gone, the unforgettable flavor hangs on.

The second week of February was the goodbye week at my language school for Shigeki, the six month Japanese Rotary Scholar, and myself. Both of us had coincidentally started our classes on the same day, September 1, 2008, and so finished on the same day as well, February 13, 2009. With classes seven hours a day and one-on-one for an extended period of time, we had shared great conversations, overcome linguistic frustrations, learned to appreciate different teaching and learning styles, and most of all, become friends as opposed to simple teachers and students. Each of us gave our final presentations, which amounted to an hour of nerves and sweat and a desire to do justice to all the work our professors had done in our benefit. And then on lucky Friday, February the 13th, we celebrated our happy despedida (farewell).

Hours later my family landed and we took off on a trip to the Galapagos that exceeded all expectations. The islands are worth every ounce of credit they receive. What amazed me, even more than the untouched beauty, was the unnatural relationship between animal and human. The Galapagos, to the science mind, has been inextricably linked to the theory of evolution, and I felt it immediately in the presence of the wild sea lions, iguanas, blue-footed boobies and numerous other animals. The animals, living in isolation, have never felt a threat from humans, and therefore paid no attention to our presence, allowing for us to venture within inches without creating even a stir. The closeness and variety of unique life was truly impressive. Priyanka, who traveled with us, actually already wrote a great blog on our Galapagos adventures and if you are interested in more I recommend reading what she had to say.

Refreshed from a week in the sun, my parents and brother returned to work in the states, and I took off on a two week hiking trip with Hudson to southern Ecuador. On our first stop, Quilotoa, we were accompanied by Priyanka, Ingred and Angella, and had a great time hiking the crater lake together. Quilotoa is a 3 km in diameter lake that now sits in the caldera created by the collapse of the volcano in an eruption that took place approximately 800 years ago. Thanks to the alkaline content and dissolved minerals the lake has a beautiful turquoise color in the shade that shifts to a green glow in the sun. One of the most breath-taking sights I have seen, and definitely the highlight of my two week backpacking stint, the path along the ridge line circumference of the lake was awesome!

After hiking the lake the girls returned to Quito and Hudson and I gathered are packs. We embarked on the approximately 8 mile hike to the small town of Chugchilan. Following Lonely Planet's description of sandy spots, broken signs, and several two and three-way forks in the road, we found are way from the lake, down to the base of a canyon, past an eight foot jump across a river, and back up to the plateau town of Chugchilan. The picturesque hike afforded great views to go with our tired legs that we were more than happy to put up in hammocks at one of the greatest hostels in Ecuador, Hostal Mama Hilda. Chugchilan was a town of coincidences and happy meetings. There, I properly met a couple I had seen jump off a boat in the Galapagos a week before and was reunited with four friends from England that had actually been on our boat in the Galapagos.

Passing on the milk truck exit out of Chugchilan because of logistical reasons, Hudson and I endured 14 hours of travel on a total of three different buses to make it to Cuenca the next evening. In Cuenca we met up with Ashley, a friend from Fayetteville, and quickly moved on to Vilcabamba, a quaint town set in the folds of the southern mountains of Ecuador. Known as the valley of longevity, the area is "reputed to have beneficial effects on the health and life span of human beings." Who knows if my three days there will have any long term effects, but I most definitely felt healthy relaxing in Hostal Izhcayluma, swimming, and hiking around the area. Unfortunately, in Vilcabamba, also began our streak of bad hiking luck:

Hike 1: White out conditions walking through pure mud to a cloud covered peak in Parque Nacional Podacarpus
Hike 2: Diverted on three different trail attempts by five bulls that lead me to make concerned calls to our taxi driver for advice on how to react when face to face with a bull
Hike 3: Up to the refuge of Cotopaxi and above reaching almost 5,000 meters only to remain in clouds and mist the whole time without ever getting a glimpse of the peak
Hike 4: Plan to climb Volcan Corazón failed the morning of due to bad weather and instead we returned to Quito

To go with the bad luck, however, we shared several laughs, games of rummy, and beautiful views of other peaks from our 37 hours of bus rides!!! Travel through the south was a fabulous journey that brought us back to Quito feeling a little fitter and very excited about all the adventures to come!

Since retuning to Quito I have enjoyed a busy week thanks to the overlap of U.S. spring breaks that has lead to visits from several friends. Last weekend we made a getaway to Baños for a downhill bike ride with Hudson's girlfriend Jamie, and our friend Leigh, who was studying abroad here in Ecuador last semester. And this week Priyanka's parents are around and we have enjoyed exploring Quito together. So basically, a couple more meals, a fun night out, and Friday morning I will hop on a plane to Peru. Next week brings a hike to Machu Picchu and the beginnings of southern explorations through Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, and Chile, that culminate on April 14th in Santiago! There is no telling how internet will be in the next couple of weeks, but I will do me best to post if I can. Over and out from Quito!!

El Retorno (The Return)

A quick respite and recharge back in the States has left this blog slightly subdued for a little over a month, but TheGuptaman has returned to Quito for the second half of his adventures. He apologizes for the long absence, but looks forward to a return to random ramblings.

This half of the travels has taken a rapid start as life has seriously picked up steam. Language school is monumentally more fun thanks to the arrival of Anita (Priyanka's sister who will soon be studying abroad in Argentina), Hudson (my good friend from UNC who will be my traveling companion for my backpacking segment), and Angella (an always smiling Rotary Scholar from Atlanta). As I transition out of grammar studies and into literature and idiomatic expressions in these last two weeks at Academía de Español I am reminded of a fascinating linguistic aspect of Spanish that tells a lot about the culture and concept of affection. In none of my past travels have I found it not just okay, but endearing, to call a girl "fatty," but here it is made possible by a simple suffix, "-ita."

A Quick "-ita" Lesson:
The Spanish word for fat is "gordo" when referring to a male and "gorda" when referring to a female. Around the house and about the streets you are sure to hear a mother lovingly call her pleasantly plump daughter, "gordita", or a wife relate a story about her overweight husband, "gordito." Many Americans, I am sure, would find it shocking and probably even downright rude to call someone the equivalent of "chubby one," but lets try to see this in an emic way. This is a fascinating, and I believe, valuable aspect of the language that shows how people can have different understandings of physical beauty and appreciate each other for all their uniqueness. The idea of adding "-ita" to an adjective to add affection extends to several different words too (chinita - little chinese one, negrita - little black one, flaquita - skinny one).
Warning: Do not get too excited and incorporate this into your daily English. Somehow, I believe it could lead to undesired consequences.

Spanish subtleties aside, these first couple of weeks back in Quito have been very busy with two weekends of travel, the creation of an unstoppable gringo basketball team, renewed salsa lessons, new nicknames and more. We made a return trip to Mindo in a sizeable group of seven + one amazing Englishwoman, Angie, whom we adopted at the bus station. The daily rain of my first week back in Quito gave way to brilliant sunshine in Mindo making for a much more enjoyable day of ziplining over the cloud-forest. Unlike our first visit, this time I did not find myself wishing that my glasses came equipped with windshield wipers. We also returned to the waterfall hiking ground, but sloshed our way through the mud to a different, much less-frequented waterfall. Strangely enough, four of us were wearing brand new sneakers at the start, but emerged with different shades of brown covering our soles. The mud seemed to assume a mind of its own during the hike out and the men folk, myself included, emerged thankful that we had survived a hair-raising, cloud forest right of passage that led to a shirtless exit.

Post Mindo (kudos to Hudson for embarking on the adventure only five hours after arriving in Quito from the States) we returned to the grind of seven a day classes, but found ways to create variety. I have thoroughly appreciated the return to Tuesdays and Thursdays in the southern Camal Market where I enjoy conversing with our friends who battle the Diabetes, Cholesterol, and Hypertension Cocktail with a pill + inadvisable chicken and rice for breakfast. The number of interested patients has increased and we continue to try to push for the addition of fruits and vegetables in their diets, but I mean, who can resist a big chicken with white rice, mmm.

Salsa lessons are back in swing as Angella, Anita, and Hudson have joined the fun. And now that an additional gringo has arrived in town, Will, Peter, Hudson, and I have begun to frequent the local basketball courts to represent for Estados Unidos. Currently, undefeated in group play, we look forward to maintaining the chemistry in this unlikely situation that brought together the talent of UCLA and UNC in a powerhouse not to be soon forgotten. The chance friendships created off the court have also led to promises, that I doubt will be fulfilled, for me to receive free lessons from a makeshift professor - the cursing negrito on the basketball court - on the Spanish he claims I need, but will not learn in the classroom.

As I look ahead, I see a banana milkshake being prepared with breakfast, an ultimate frisbee game brewing in less than 24 hours, a multi-course meal and boardgames for Peter's birthday, and a visit from family plus a trip to the Galapagos just appearing on the horizon. With plenty of excitement ahead, I also bring a promise to return to writing regularly with a hope that you won't find it a bore.

And, let us part with some random tidbits:

1. Hudson, will from this day on be called Utsent by me thanks to the fact that this is how his name was spelled at the Salsa School.
2. Rum and coke was served at our language school at 11:00 AM...definitely, would not fly in the States.
3. Angella is called "la bebé" (the baby) by her host mother and often finds herself waving at airplanes to be polite and fit in with her host family
4. My internet is not working so I can't actually post this now. This will probably be posted a day after true completion.

A huge abrazo (hug) to all!!