Friday, April 24, 2009

El Último Post (The Final Post)

April 24th and I find myself...HOME! After months of travels and experiences I am finally back with stories that will stay with me forever. Some of you have already been surprised to see me back in Fayetteville without a blog post to explain how or when I returned!
The last month was the most bus, sleeping bag and cold floor inundated month of my entire time abroad. Backpacking month began with a flight from Quito, Ecuador, to Cuzco, Peru, on March 13th and ended with a flight from Santiago, Chile, back to Quito on April 14th. It was a month that kept us physically above 10,000 feet, mentally out of the box, and emotionally over the clouds!

We started where many would end, with a hike through time along the path of the Inca to the sacred site of Machu Picchu. The travel group was comprised of Hudson, Priyanka and her family, a quad of Canadians, two pairs from the States, a slew of porters, cooks, and guides, and yours truly. Acclimated from Quito and a couple of days in Cuzco, we embarked with light bags that would strangely seem to accumulate weight over the next couple of days. Weather was pristine and the bad hiking luck was fortunately held up in airport security in Ecuador. Everything was ideal, even group dynamic. Walking the stairs of the Inca I was overcome by two main thoughts: 1. How amazing it was to be hiking the same steps as the Inca once did! and 2. Which genius decided to make the stairs soo steep?! As we passed ruin after ruin and pieced together the emphatic descriptions from our proudly animated guide, Ruben, we began to understand the intricacy and planning behind these protected routes. The trail was not simply a path to Machu Picchu, but was layered with history, symbolism, and networked connections of trade, security, agriculture, and royalty. Learning and seeing the network unfold over the four days, 39 kilometers, and thousands of stairs was a truly unique opportunity that created a mental setting for the breathtaking Machu Picchu itself. On the final morning we woke up at 4:30 to begin the last 7 kilometers in the rain. A quiet disbelieving silence blanketed all of us, no one wanting to recognize the fact that rain had caught us on the final morning, that airport security had finally allowed the bad hiking luck to pass. Sweat under my water-proof jacket only added to the clammy feeling inside, but walk on I did. The rain faucet finally sealed its drip about 30 minutes hike from Machu Picchu and by the time we reached Intipunku (The Sun Gate) the clouds appeared to have cleared, save one covering the entire site. Maybe it was not to be... but patience held us at the top, and before our eyes the last slivers of the white puff dissolved into air rendering an uninhibited view of the mystical masterpiece! Not wanting to stop there we explored the entire ruins and added several more stairs to our day in order to capture the view from the famous peak of Huayna Picchu before finally returning content and cansado (tired) to Cuzco.


Following the Inca Trail, Priyanka returned to Quito, her family flew back to the States, and Hudson and I started our trek southward. We bused into Bolivia, paid the hefty $135 reciprocity fee, and happened upon a speech by Mr. Evo Morales, the president of Bolivia himself. Aside from the expected fanfare, the substance was lacking. So we just snapped a couple of pictures, laughed at Mr. Morales' proposition that Lake Titicaca should be considered one of the seven wonders of the world, and continued on our 17 km hike from Copacacabana to Yampupata. On the way, we came across a lone traveler from New York who joined us for the remainder of the hike and two nights on the Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun). That evening we enjoyed a picturesque sunset and views of snowcapped peaks from atop Titicaca, one of the highest navigable lakes in the world. Surrounded by water and beautifully terraced slopes we went exploring. The stroll around the island somehow turned into over 20 kilometers of hiking and several arguments to avoid from having to pay for entrance tickets to archaeological sites we had no intentions of visiitng. In one case an absurdly fit Bolivian lady even proceded to chase us down the trail while we gasped for oxygen!!

In the next week we quickly visited: Sorata, a small town close to the Rainforest; La Paz, the strangely desolate but geographically stunning capital; and Potosi, the highest city in the world and at one time one of the wealthiest cities in South America because of its silver mining industry. These three cities, however, were simply on the route to the highlight of our journey south...Los Salares de Uyuni (The Salt Flats)!! Satisfied, thanks to Boston style pizza at an American owned joint in Uyuni, we set off on a three day tour of the salt flats and "other" sights in southwest Bolivia. Little did we know that the "other" sites would fall in the category of "most amazing landscapes we have ever seen." The tour was unbelievable and definitely a must do for anyone backpacking in South America. Rainbow colored mountains bordering windsept deserts that would have made even Salvador Dali jealous, glowing red lakes dotted with flocks of flamingos, towering rock formations like natural skyscrapers on the horizon, vast expanses of white salt replacing any concept of ground I previously held, volcanos constantly spewing ash into the air above, the landscapes are endless, jaw-dropping, and truly unique throughout southwest Bolivia. Let the pictures speak for themselves...


Post Bolivia, we turned onto the final stretch, crossing over into Argentina for a quick bike ride through the Quebrada de Humahuaca and a more significant stop for a couple of days in Mendoza, Argentina. There we sipped on some of the Malbec wines Argentina is known for, toured the vineyards on bikes that took a blast from the past, and danced away with the host family of our buddy, Anita, Priyanka's sister who is doing a semester abroad there. Well rested and slightly spoiled, we night bused into Santiago, Chile, for our last hurrah. In Santiago we were joined by Priyanka on her spring break and our good friend Shepard, who I had spent a summer with in Ghana and who is currently starting on a two year Master's program in Chile! Our group enjoyed a getaway frequenting the cafes of the well known photographer's paradise, Valparaiso, before returning to Santiago to each take our separate ways!

And all of that brings me to where I am now, back home, sitting on the couch typing away on my laptop already reminiscing, while I look forward to a new transition into a very exciting phase. Regular checking of email brought me thirteen documents from medical school and plenty of reminders that much needs to be organized! So, this means that this is the last blog post I will write for the time being as my South American adventures have come full circle. I thank all of you for following along with me and staying in touch and I hope you have enjoyed reading. Now enjoy the final slideshow with plenty of pictures that hopefully capture at least some of the natural beauty South America has to offer!!


All the Best,
Amit

NOTE: Scroll to bottom for most recent slideshow